If you want a thick, healthy lawn, nothing beats our sod for instant gratification. You are basically buying time. While sodding may be more expensive than seeding, sod only takes a few weeks to establish itself, while seeding may take years before it develops to a comparable lawn. At Victory Greens, we take great pride in providing only the highest quality turf grass. It may not be the least expensive sod on the market, but because of our, Best Price Guarantee; our price cannot be beat! Also, We deliver!
Victory Greens has only the best turf grasses for our soil conditions in treasure valley. Our dark green Kentucky Blue Grass / Perennial Rye sod is cut fresh daily and is usually available at our nursery. Kentucky Blue grass / Perennial Rye, has been proven to be best turf grass for high traffic areas because it self-repairs when it is abused. It is considered to be a Sports Turf and is the top choice for most athletic fields and school playgrounds in Boise valley.
When your asking yourself, where to buy sod, remember Victory Greens has the best price! Whether you are buying Kentucky Blue Grass or buying drought tolerant fescues, sod buying is easy. If you do have an application for a fescue sod, try our XRE Tall Fescue; it is a more drought tolerant variety of grass. For turf applications in areas that are hard to mow, try our Creeping Red Fescue that just grows to 14 in height and will work well in those areas. So when you are ready for sod, call Victory Greens. Here are some tips:
1 Roll = 18″ x 6.5′ = 10 sq ft
50 Rolls on 1 pallet = 500 sq ft
FREE DELIVERY OVER 2000 sq ft!!!!!
Preparation and Amendment
Creating a lush healthy lawn begins largely with the condition of the soil. You will want to start by getting rid of any existing vegetation like grass or weeds. Use Round-Up at least 7 days before laying your new sod to kill the vegetation. Rake out all debris and any rocks that are over of an inch to get ready for roto-tilling. After all, a compacted sub-soil is the last thing a new lawn needs.
Roto-till your yard and grade the soil to slope away from any structures or buildings. Fill in the low-lying areas as you grade to eliminate potential drainage issues. Many soils in the Boise area are clay-type soils. You will want to till in some organic matter, like peat moss or compost in order to improve the soil structure. This will add humus proteins to the soil that will allow the amended topsoil to resist compaction as well as help increase the soils ability to hold moisture and essential nutrients. This will work to break up the clay-type soil improving its drainage to insure growing a lush healthy lawn.
Take the time to test run your water system before finalizing your fine-grade. It should be easy to see if your system is providing even water coverage once the ground is smoothed out. Adjust, move, or add sprinklers so you are not making costly repairs later because of poor coverage. Finalize your soil grade at about two inches below walkways, driveways, and patios surfaces. Now, you are ready for grass.
5 Simple Steps to Measure for Sod
Sketch out a general layout of your yard. It does not need to be to scale. Break up your yard areas into sections that will allow you to measure each area using the length times the width. Leave the tough oddball shapes for last. For now, try to block out each area.
Measure each of the areas you have identified on your sketch using feet. Measure the walkways, driveway, pool, patios, flowerbeds, gardens, etc. using the same block method so you can subtract those areas out.
Multiply the length times the width and get the total footage for each of the areas. Guesstimate the oddball sections and figure the footage as closely as possible. Total the overall footages of the area of your yard.
Total the footages of the walkways, flowerbeds, etc. Take the hard surface area totals and subtract them from the overall footage. You now have a fairly accurate net footage of the sod you will need.
Most professionals add 10% to the net footage to compensate for waste and cutting-in around the irregular edges. Buy enough extra sod so you do not have to deal with using too many small pieces.
Laying The Sod
Be prepared to promptly install your sod the day of the delivery. Be prepared to water. In fact, if you water the yard lightly before the sod arrives, it will make it easier to keep it moist, as the sod is laid throughout the day. Do Not Overwater! Excessive watering will create mud. Keep the ground slightly moist but firm to touch. Have sharp knives and new blades on hand for cutting-in the corners and edges.
Begin installing the sod along a driveway or a long straight section. Roll out each roll and fit each roll to the last. Avoid leaving air spaces between the seams. Stagger the joints in a brick-like pattern. Continue to moisten the soil ahead of where you are laying. Water the newly laid sod enough to keep the sod damp. Later you can get to a place where you can water the laid area thoroughly. Avoid walking on the newly laid sod. You do not want to repeatedly kneel or walk on new sod where you could leave indentations.
Cut out holes for the sprinklers in the field, so you won’t risk covering one up. Cut-in the edges and make sure each subsequent row is tight as you can make it. Before long you will be finished and ready for final watering.
Watering Your Sod
Do not let the sod dry out for the first three weeks. After that, watering can be reduced but make sure your new lawn has enough water to be moist during the rooting period. Water several times a day at first but try not to create standing water. Later, you will want to water less frequently and for longer periods of time to soak the ground deeper. This will promote healthier grass. Weather conditions will dictate the length and time of watering over the first few weeks.
Once your lawn is established, plan to water your grass in the morning. Do not water in the heat of the day. If you water at night, your grass is put to bed wet. This can encourage fungal disease and other problems that are not conducive to growing a healthy lawn.
University studies have shown that it is not necessary to fertilize the first 30 days. After that, however, new lawn starter can provide nutrients for the new root system and be beneficial. Victory Greens offers several annual fertilizer programs that will keep your lawn healthy naturally. Come by and visit with our friendly staff, weï¿½ll be happy to help you and answer your questions.
When the grass reaches over 3 inches, it is time to mow your new lawn. It is best to keep you mower blade sharp. Keep the grass mowed to 2.5 inches for the first few months. Studies have shown mowing to 3.5 to 4 inches is best in the hot summer months and 2.5 to 3 inches in the cooler months. Mow your grass short before winter to prevent snow mold or fungal disease. Enjoy your new lawn.
Call Victory Greens Stone & Garden Center for all of your lawn care needs.